Category: 22re overheating problems

22re overheating problems

Discussion in ' General Tech ' started by yotaredDec 17, Log in or Sign up.

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My 93 Toyota with a 22re 5 speed keeps overheating. It has a new water pump and thermostat. The radiator, engine block and heater core were flushed out. It ran good for about 50 miles then the heat went cold and it started to run hot when I slowed to turn or when stopped.

I have no idea where the water is going. Its not in the oil and no white smoke out of the tail pipe.

Toyota 22RE coolant loss, overheating. I think I found the answer...

Nothing is dripping on the driveway. Someone told me some of the baffles may be stopped up in the radiator. There was a lot of trash and gunk when I flushed the system out. But the radiator is only 5 or so years old. I am at a loss at what to do. Do any of you think I should have the radiator cooked and cleaned out? Last edited: Dec 17, Joined: Apr 5, Location: Kings Mountain.

Did you purge all of the air out of the coolant system? If not, it may not have been full from the start. Park the truck on an incline nose up. Fill the radiator and let the engine run till it gets to normal operating temp with the heat on.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Thermostat

Once the t stat opens and coolant starts flowing, just keep topping it off till it wont take anymore. BrianGreenDec 18, Please correct me if I am wrong or just being dumb. SFGatorDec 18, I always left it off while it was running.

Keep topping it off as it gets sucked down. When it dosent want anymore, it wont take it. Joined: May 1, Location: Lexington. I went through two bad vato zone units before I got a good one at the dealership.

Thanks guys I will give it a try and see what happens. Well I purged all the air out like was said and it still overheated.Log in or Sign up. Toyota Minis. My truck is overheating.

22re overheating problems

Previously it rarely went past halfway on the temp gauge, now it keeps going, maybe a bit slower. The radiator looks clean, I pulled it out and sprayed it, there was very little trash to block the airflow. I replaced the water pump and thermostat, the hoses appear fine. I pulled the water pump and the impeller seems firmly attached, the belt seems sufficiently tight. No loss of coolant except what boils out.

With the hot weather it is now out of control. I can't find a damn thing wrong. RichardJul 1, Justin DangerJul 2, I've seen several older Toyota pickups lose the fan clutch and require a rebuild or at least a refill of the fluid inside. Also old radiators do get clogged with time. I think more prone if you don't use Toyota red coolant? Anyways, try having the inside of the core flushed out, the passages may just be clogged up.

PerkolatorJul 2, I have noticed a lot of these threads pop up in the past couple weeks, so you are not alone! RichardJul 2, Have you got the correct thermostat? Did you "burp" any air bubbles out of the system when you changed the water pump? I've found over time if you go back to when you first noticed the problem did you do any work on the engine? This might be a good place to start.

The 20R has a bleed screw on the drivers side of the block. This helps with getting any air out of the system not sure about 22R. The fan clutch is pretty loose, I'll fix that but I don't see how that is making it run hot on the freeway. I changed the water pump about 3 years ago and had no problems until a few months ago. No loss of coolant until it overheated. I suppose an air bubble could have been trapped when I drained the system to replace the thermostat but I've notice no change in the symptoms.

I put a garden hose to the radiator and the water flowed through so I don't think there is any restriction in the radiator. The only thing left besides the fan clutch is the lower radiator hose and that seems fine. I don't mind replacing parts but I'd like to have some confidence that I'm actually fixing the problem instead of throwing money away.

Justin Danger likes this. RichardJul 3, Just for funremove the thermostat. Put everything back together and run the engine until it gets to operating temperature.

Replace the thermostat with one rated for degrees. The fact this started when you changed the thermostat could mean you just got a bad thermostat. Running with no thermo should bleed any air out of the block.Everything from hard start issues, rough idle, mis-fire, lack of power…. Since there are a few hundred things it CAN be, I recommend starting with the basic stuff first. They can only give you simple info and sometimes, the wrong info. These are also the first questions I am going to ask you about when you call and ask for diagnostic help.

Those janky aftermarket plug wires? Make sure the ends are fitting all the way into the distributor cap and are snug on the spark plug side. Pull the spark plugs and check the gap, check for wear Check the valve adjustment and keep an eye out for any that are too tight. We recommend checking valve adjustment every 7. We also recommend going a hair tighter than the factory says too. Rough idle? Engine shakes at idle?

Low idle? Check for a misfire. I will them point and laugh at you. Start with the 1 plug wire and go around the cap clock wise to keep track.

Diagnostic info

If the idle changes drops when you pull a plug wire, you can pretty much say that cylinder is firing. If the idle stays the same when you pull the plug wire at that cylinder, then you know there is an issue with that one. You can concentrate on that cylinder check the plug wire, spark plug, valve adjust, injector etc…. I get this one A LOT! It can be a number of different things.

The issue was an internal programming problem with the ECU. One fix that was recommended in another, later year, bulletin was to set the base timing at 3 degrees instead of 5 which would translate to 10 degrees without the ECU jumped.

They recommended 2 degrees base timing. I would actually say…. It has to be functioning properly both mechanically and electronically. Setting timing on your engine properly is one of the most critical parts to make it run right and perform to its potential. This is not a engine you worked on as a kid. It is the connector that has 2 wires not 1, not 3 or 4, just 2.

It's the same connector you've used to count the codes when your "check engine" light is on.

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Shown below. See the TPS section above.

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To set the initial base timing, remove BOTH vacuum lines at the vacuum advance on your distributor and cap both lines golf tees work perfect.

With the timing light and vacuum lines off and capped pointed at the lower pulley, turn your distributor until the pointer is at the 0 degree mark.

Connect the second vacuum line next.Remember Me? Site Navigation. Overheating Issues. Well this is somewhat a problem revisted, unfortunately. Basically I have severe problems with my 4runner overheating while driving off road. If on the throttle hard for any period of time like climbing a hill my temp will shoot right into the red.

I bought my car into Toyota and when they looked at it they said it was due to all the mud and dirt I had in the radiator oops and they said that should take care of everything.

22re overheating problems

It definitely has not. After my car has gotten all the way into the red the only ways to cool it down are to turn it off and wait or drive a trail while cruising at a constant speed with little work for the engine required basically allowing fresh air to flowif I just stop and leave it running it keeps climbing.

My thermostat is fine we checked that after I had it randomly overheat once and my fluids are all at the right levels and I have not had problems losing any of the coolant other than to boiling over. I feel this problem has gotten worse, if anything and I was curious if anyone had any idea what they think it could be?

Last edited by BlairB; at AM. Overheating can be caused by anything that decreases the cooling system's ability to absorb, transport and dissipate heat: A low coolant level, a coolant leak through internal or external leakspoor heat conductivity inside the engine because of accumulated deposits in the water jackets, a defective thermostat that doesn't open, poor airflow through the radiator, a slipping fan clutch, an inoperative electric cooling fan, a collapsed lower radiator hose, an eroded or loose water pump impeller, or even a defective radiator cap.

One of nature's basic laws says that heat always flows from an area of higher temperature to an area of lesser temperature, never the other way around. The only way to cool hot metal, therefore, is to keep it in constant contact with a cooler liquid. And the only way to do that is to keep the coolant in constant circulation.

22re overheating

As soon as the circulation stops, either because of a problem with the water pump, thermostat or loss of coolant, temperatures begin to rise and the engine starts to overheat. The coolant also has to get rid of the heat it soaks up while passing through the block and head s.

So the radiator must be capable of doing its job, which requires the help of an efficient cooling fan at slow speeds. The thermostat must be doing its job to keep the engine's average temperature within the normal range. If the thermostat fails to open, it will effectively block the flow of coolant and the engine will overheat. Your engine may not be overheating at all. Your temperature gauge or warning lamp may be coming on because of a faulty coolant sensor.

Sometimes this can be caused by a low coolant level or air trapped under the sensor. When it's hot do you hear lots of fan noise? Is your fan enaging like it should? Have you noticed any coolant leaks from under your truck? I would look at your hoses and make sure they are alright. Since the dealer can't seem to fix the issue, maybe it is time for the lemon law. My has been taken through degree heat, snow piles where I had to really work the engine to rock it outand other harsh conditions.

My temp gauge will never budge from the middle regardless! Something seems very wrong with your truck because how many members here have gone offroading and not encounter any problems? A little update, the worst case scenario is happening with my car. They have had multiple techs try to figure out what the issue is and they cannot find anything wrong with the car They understand the problem is occurring off road, mainly when the engine is under some stress climbing up a hill, for example and are trying to figure out the best way to replicate this sort of condition to determine the problem, but as of now there is no luck.

I am keeping my fingers crossed As basic at it sounds maybe having a radiator shop check the flow through the radiator.

22re overheating problems

Maybe something goofy happened in production of the radiator, a shop rag jammed in one of the end tanks or something. A second be to might be dyno the T4R.

If it comes out weak and it over heats maybe you have a defective, clogged converter although that.Started by raywynn Newbie Questions. Started by reddevil General 4WD Discussion. Started by kllangeland Engine.

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MCR19 Registration is now open! Click for event thread. I have an 85 22re with a fresh overhaul that keeps overheating within minutes of start up. Took it out to wheel on it's maiden voyage and never went past the trail head. The guage will fully peg just after startup. We gutted the new thermostat and it and after few start ups it began to run a little cooler at the little white line on the hot side but wasn't buiding any cooling system pressure.

I pressure tested the system and found the water pump leaking out the weep hole. I replaced the water pump and installed a new stant t stat and radiator cap, now it builds good pressure but is once again pegging the guage. It seems like the coolant in the bottom end is getting way too hot before the t stat opens then the whole system stays HOT. It runs hot even if i'm cruising at mph.

I did do a search on this topic and found the upgraded 2 stage t stat from toyota that I will try tomorrow. I do not have another guage yet to confirm the temp, the damn sunpro pos I bought at auto zone has too short of copper wire to reach from inside the cab to where i need to mount it.

The radiator and instument cluster is out of a wrecked 87 i picked up for parts but it ran good and cool. If I disconnect the sensing wire from the coolant sensor also new on the intake manifold the guage will drop so i know its not the wiring. Any ideas woul be greatfully appriciated. Check to see if your radiator fan is blowing air in the right direction toward the radiator. It is easy to accidentally mount the fan blade assembly backwards so that the fan is blowing air away from the radiator instead of into it.

Quote from: chance85 on May 23,PM. Pride - is what drive a man to do his very best even when no one is looking. Well I hooked up an auto meter guage today and it was reading on the cool side, so I guess the guage that worked when pulled from a good running wreck failed when I swapped it over.

When it was getting hot before i did not let it run long enough to find out if it would boil over, did't want to take the chance with a fresh overhaul. I'd stick a real temp gauge in there, then. The OEM ones tend to have a dead spot in the middle and don't actually tell you the actual temp which should rise and fall a bit as you drive. Then nothing nothing - pegs itself almost instantly.

OTOH, knowing that it's degrees All products intended for Off-Road use.Hi… Got a Toyota 4wd pickup with the 22R 4-cylinder engine. Got a very intermittent problem, where the engine overheats when going up a hill first thing in the morning.

When it gets too close to the red zone on the guage I pull over and turn the engine off for a couple minutes. After restarting, everything seems OK and the engine runs at normal temp.

Do the thermostat first. Yea, I live in southern Idaho, sometimes gets down to minus 10 or With this many miles I would look to the timing chain as a contributing cause. This will be esp. Also check the hoses, belt, and radiator for clogging.

I would set aside a Sat. The pump is cheap and easy to change, and since it is simpler to do so with the radiator out, all the rest of this is just sensible preventive care. If the timing chain is bad, you can expect to spend about bucks on parts and take three days to do it yourself, or about a grand to have it done. You dont say if its a carb or injected. This can make a difference in the difficulty of the work, as can the difference between ca. Water pumps can fail either by beginning to leak or by erosion of the impellars.

Been there, done that. The 22R is carbed, the 22RE injected, but the question is a good one. I agree with Ignoramous about giving it a good thorough going-over, with a new T-stat my money is on the T-stat.

It has served the vehicle well. Check to make sure you have a radiator fan. I drove my PU bought in for eight years with intermittent overheating problems six thermostats with five difference garages not knowing what the problem was before a car parts store clerk looked over the car with me and found it had no radiator fan. New fan and mount and it never overheated again.

I have a '91 that wanted to run hotter the faster you went…Turned out, salt spray had eaten up the copper fins that are placed between the radiator tubes. Half of them had fallen out, greatly reducing the ability of the radiator…. Tester July 5,pm 2. I say lazy thermostat too.

Caddyman July 5,pm 9.It's still a degree thermostat like the original, but it has a second, smaller wax slug to help out under certain circumstances. OK, time to get get bored Sometimes when using the heater, the interior fan will drop the temp of the coolant below normal operating temp.

The "cooled" water that just came out of the heater core then travels past the thermostat causing the thermostat to close, because it "thinks" the coolant needs to get back up to normal operating temp. This causes your temp gauge to show overheating or wild fluctuations.

So, as you can see, it's a pretty specific problem that it's trying to solve. As a daily driver, without this issue, I still recommend the regular OE thermostat I sell. If you are having this above issue, this could be the fix for it. I've been hesitant to add this to the site only for the reason I didn't want people buying it for the wrong reasons thinking it'll fix their faulty cooling system.

You guys are smart enough to know when you need it, so I'll leave it up to you. Select need a seal too? Add To Cart. Radiator cap. Fan blade. Thermostat genuine Toyota part.

Mountains in qatar

Fan clutch. Water pump.

1 comment

  1. Goltilkis on 03.04.2021 at 17:00
  2. Reply
  3. Absolut ist mit Ihnen einverstanden. Darin ist etwas auch die Idee gut, ist mit Ihnen einverstanden.